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Each
month one colour seems to dominate the garden: white
snowdrops in February, pink blossom in March, golden
daffodils in April and in May swathes of bluebells
and free forget-me-nots. Free, because they multiply
without the need for expense and human intervention,
just a little care to avoid hoeing seedlings. The
blue of the gardens is repeated in the woodlands where
traditional English bluebells provide a blue carpet
of tranquillity…. |
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Last
year a friend reported on the mass of bluebells at
Markshall Estate near Coggeshall but I arrived too
late to see them in their prime; so I had to wait
a year to see their fine display on one of my walks. |
Markshall
(also known as Marks Hall) is a managed estate held
in trust by The Thomas Phillips Price Trust. Entrance
is by annual membership or by payment of a daily
fee per person allowing access to the walks on the
estate and the arboretum. In 2007 the entrance
fees were revised; visitors may wish to check before
visiting the site.
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Late
Spring and equipped with sturdy shoes and a windproof
jacket I leave the car park and walk past the visitors'
centre, where maps indicate a selection of walks all
marked by coloured markers on posts. Behind the visitors'
centre the mown path beside the hedge leads into the
country with a great expanse of open fields. Striding
out away from memories of busy roads and chattering
people I tune in to the noises of the countryside:
the lark dominates the air waves and is a reminder
of my previous walk at Marks Hall when searching for
primroses and enjoying the huge skies of East Anglia. |
Signs
indicate a right turn at the end of the field but
as I turn to the edge of the wood I spy the blue carpet
under the trees. Traditional English bluebells, with
gentle hanging heads are shimmering in the broken
sunlight that reaches between the branches to the
floor of the wood. It is a sight to treasure - a picture
for the mind - that is impossible to replicate in
a photograph with a lack of smell and bird song. In
contrast to this natural touch of spring is a cultivated
field of brilliant yellow oil seed rape - the blue
and gold bordered by fresh leafed hedgerows might
look artificial on an artist's palette but the eye
absorbs the intensity of the colours and gives a vision
worth remembering. For those with a good sense of
smell the scent from the oil seed rape plant is almost
intoxicating. I love the yellow blooms, as do the
bees, but the resulting honey is rather waxy, the
local borage produced a lighter honey. |
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Away
from the bluebell wood and along the hedgerow full
of puffs of white May blossom and young oaks I walk
below the hum of bees, possibly wild bees all busy
enjoying the morning sun. The mixed hedge is ideal
cover for birds and a natural habitat for wildlife,
although I suspect that their ability to monitor my
progress and stay out of sight thwarts my wish to
spot them in their natural surroundings. A briar leans
out from the hedge with tight green buds that will
burst with pale pink roses in the next few weeks.
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Left
at the next marker, along the lane, past the pond
covered with fluff and petals that spoil my idea of
a reflective photo. But Markshall is not designed
for happy snappers it is a tranquil place to walk,
absorb, relax and enjoy the peace of the countryside,
successful photography is an added bonus. After weeks
with little rain the paths are dry and the usual slippery
path through the coppiced wood is dry and rutted,
no bluebells but there are still clumps of primroses
snuggling into the mossy bank. |
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Away
from the overhanging mesh of branches and onto the
cinder track right past stacks of logs that remind
me that this is a managed estate where damaged trees
are felled and recycled into posts, brushwood fences
or charcoal. Occasionally the tracks at Markshall
reveal a concrete base a reminder of the history of
the area when it was used by the military during war-time.
Today, the light aircraft can be heard as they take
off from the runway at Earls Colne. Aircraft and swans
have to negotiate the huge pylons that march across
the countryside like an invading force; perhaps one
day a great benefactor will arrange for cables to
be placed safely underground. |
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As
I reload the camera two walkers pass a friendly greeting
as they head towards a wood known for the Nightingale,
sad, I think of nightingales in Berkeley Square and
need to retune my ears to recognise their song. Beside
the path, spears of ferns shoot up through the undergrowth,
they have yet to unwrap their lacelike leaves (perhaps
ferns do not have leaves they may have another name
- do let me know) one fern stem reminds me of a cobra
with upright stem and a still head that could explode
at any moment. |
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Cross-roads,
well signed, so I head right for the visitors' centre.
Hidden amongst the trees trying to find the "secret"
charcoal burner but the secret eludes me and I return
to the track. The countryside frees us from the taint
of city smells and gives us the opportunity to absorb
the blend of sight, sound and scent. From the exotic
perfume of blue bells the intoxicating smell of the
oil seed rape to the pungent smell of the resident
foxes. Apparently fox dung is very popular with some
visiting dogs but less popular with their owners as
they drive them home! |
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From
open fields, to woodland, cultivated land and treasured
open spaces Markshall provides a contrast of sights
and sounds for visitors of all ages. |
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Summer
update...
Hot
mornings, baked earth and tinder dry stubble welcome
the summer walker. The sky lark seems to have deserted
the fields and I miss their persistent song as I
step out towards the woodland canopy. The ponds
that sparkled in the spring sunshine are now covered
with a film of dust and leaves the result of lack
of rain and dusty harvest days. Footprints of deer
and birds on the water's edge prove that you need
to be an early riser to spy the woodland's wildlife.
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Heading
towards The Avenue Walk, past the ancient oak, the
canopy of trees provides a welcome shelter from the
blazing sun. Dog roses have given way to bulging hips
and blushed pink bramble flowers are developing into
tasty blackberries. Huge long horned cattle chew the
cud during their summer stay at Markshall and prove
a great attraction for young and old heading for the
picnic area or tea at the visitors' centre. |
Wintertime
Frost
crisp leaves crunch underfoot as the wind whistles
across the open fields. The hedgerows' crop of berries
and seeds are a welcome source of food for the wildlife
of the estate. The decomposing leaves of the oak
and hazel give way to aromatic needles from the
conifers with a scent of pine not matched by man
made essences. The watering holes are slowly filling
as the wetter colder days provide a welcome top-up
service. Even the timid deer can be spotted through
the woods but they soon disappear and leave the
walker to search for less wary wildlife, but even
the squirrels are nervous of human intrusion into
their peaceful surroundings.
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The
Visitors' Centre is open most days in the summer when
the banks of sheep's parsley grace the banks of the
stream. In winter months it is usually open at weekends
when the resident ducks are eager to receive visitors'
donations of special bird food purchased from the
Visitors' Centre.
Sally
Carpenter - ClientAct PR - 2003
Update
at May 2007
The relaxed informal atmosphere at the entrance of
Marks Hall has changed in the last 6 months with the
erection of a series of barriers, gates and fences
and the introduction of new regulations. This
is a very sad reflection on the times in which we
live, but I expect that the true country lovers will
overcome the barriers so that they can enjoy the open
country walks and bird song away from the main buildings.
There are many peaceful and interesting walks across
the region.
This
year the old bluebell wood we used to enjoy has been
overrun with brambles following the opening up of
the area after the felling of a number of trees a
couple of years ago. Enthusiasts will find a
blue carpet of flowers at another wood on the outskirts
of the estate.
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Note:
Please be aware of your own safety when walking on
country lanes. |
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