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Frosty
Walk at Flatford -
Dedham to Flatford Essex/Suffolk Winter Walk
A crisp sunny Winter morning is just made for walking;
I'm off to Dedham and Constable Country. After weeks
of heavy grey skies, an overgenerous supply of rain
followed by snow and hard frosts it is a joy to
see the winter sunshine.
Despite
the list of "things to do" at the weekend
- I play truant and head towards Dedham to walk
beside the river Stour on the Essex/Suffolk border.
Dedham is located between Colchester and Ipswich
- 2 miles from the A12 and the large free car park
in Mill Lane is well signed. Driving along the country
road towards the village from Colchester there is
an informal lay by, on the left, just made for a
quick stop to take in the views across the valley:
towards the magnificent church at Dedham.
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Dedham,
has been a thriving village for generations: the wool
trade brought merchants and fine houses to the village
where their sons could be educated at a excellent
local school. Today, the High Street is a rich mix
of beautiful listed houses, interesting shops and
a fine selection of eating establishments: ancient
pubs and a 16th century tea house. The magnificent
church: St. Mary the Virgin dominates the village
and it's sturdy tower is a great landmark.
I
park in Mill Lane facing the Winter sun, hoping that
it's weak rays will keep the window screen free of
frost. As I pull on thermal socks and stuff my feet
into polythene bags before sliding them into green
wellies I am reminded of my mother's advice. Many
years ago I was instructed to place plastic bags in
my Wellington boots - this made them easier to remove,
especially when caked in mud, and should help to keep
the feet a little warmer. I am relying on this theory
today as the temperature is unlikely to rise above
zero. Sheepskin mits, a warm jacket, an alpaca hat
and scarf plus mobile phone and sufficient money to
buy a coffee and a bun - at last I can escape the
bustling car park. I am not alone in thinking it is
a great day for walking or feeding ducks. |
Out
of the main entrance to the car park onto the road
- turn right taking care to walk on the path. Pass
under the Dedham village sign depicting the church
and pink washed houses set against the clear blue
sky. On the left is a small parking area leading down
to a shingle river bed that ducks and doves find a
convenient resting place while awaiting donations
from bread-laden visitors. It is sometimes possible
to buy duck food made from a selection of grains and
it may be more suitable than white bread; perhaps
wild ducks should be fed organic wheat products! |
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Over
the bridge - do stop and enjoy the breadth of the
river - to the left it runs behind apartments overlooking
meadow land and on the right hand side of the bridge,
there is a summer boat yard on one side of the river
and opposite a vast water meadow leading to Dedham
Vale. Today the haw frost hangs like fairy tale icicles
on dried stems and branches that trail into the river
- but pretty scenery comes at a price - under foot
there is ice and uneven ground. The cows that usually
inhabit the field have left great imprints in the
once sodden grass and the frozen ground is not forgiving
to the unwary walker. The main track across the meadow,
identified by the trail of footprints in the frost,
is a smoother path. |
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On
the far side of the field I head for a gap in the
hedge, a gate and a sign "National Trust Dedham
Vale" leading to a small path protected by
a network of hawthorns that reach across the path
and provide a tunnel walk. You almost expect to
hear Alice with the White Rabbit checking his watch
and hurrying past.
I stop, a busy blackbird is systematically throwing
leaves across the path as she endeavours to reach
a possible supply of hibernating insects; intense
on her task she eventually dives down to the bottom
of the ditch where a tiny stream of water gives
her a welcome drink
Through
the branches to the left mounds of tufted grasses
protrude from a winter lake of the frozen flooded
water meadow; how envious those affluent garden
designers would be to see how nature had carefully
spaced each mound of grass to maximise its reflection
in the frozen water. Walt Disney's artists who created
the stunning images in "Fantasia ", must
have been inspired by such a scene..
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Beyond
the tunnel path there is a meeting of footpaths -
signed "Flatford" to the right - "East
Bergholt" to the left. I head left over a small
bridge where a fisherman tries to challenge the local
river life seeking shelter beneath a thin layer of
moving ice. At the start of the walk I noticed the
rumbling of the A12 traffic then as I relax and concentrate
on the peace of the countryside I escape the noises
of everyday life in exchange for the crackle of dried
sticks under foot.
Another
sign-post: "footpath" to the left and "footpath"
straight on - it is for us to guess or retreat to
a map. I head straight on, over a gate, past mellowing
silage wrapped in huge bales of black polythene with
a whiff of the countryside, just to remind me that
this is a living countryside and working farmland.
This is a favourite field of mine, a steep climb (well
steep for East Anglia) with views extending far beyond
the Stour Valley and it is even better on sunny summer
days when we should be able to lay on meadow grass
and sweet flowers and absorb the energy from the sun
before heading on with our journey. But now it is
Winter and time to move forward tracking a well schooled
German Shepherd and his family enjoying a stroll. |
The
wooden gate on the far side of the field leads to
a narrow lane - here I turn right and skate along
the lane for the ice has not yet thawed. Luckily
it is a one- way road and most traditional country
drivers are aware that people or animals may be
round the next corner, so there is time to jump
to the leafy bank. Down into the dip and up the
hill where to the left sheep are kept close to the
farm and the horses are dressed in Winter coats.
The quiet country lane suddenly widens indicating
the entrance to the car park for Flatford Mill.
The ticket collector huddles round a gas heater
in his hut and families are busy disgorging children,
dogs, push chairs and boots from their cars before
exploring Constable Country. Across the car park
the steps lead to the Tourist Information Centre,
an attractive barn like structure manned by knowledgeable
locals and with the greatest benefit known to walkers
- clean toilets. It is always prudent to take advantage
of a good loo, especially in winter.
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Flatford
draws people who come to walk in the steps of great
artists, John Constable and Sir Alfred Munnings,
enjoy the painting classes, rest with a quick coffee
or browse in the thatched National Trust shop. My
reward is a coffee and a rock bun in the new N.T.
tea room overlooking the river and an opportunity
to people watch. Most are in twos, some wearing
matching jackets, reminiscent of dressing twins
in matching outfits, a selection of sturdy footwear,
a number of professional looking hiking sticks and
an ample range of woolly headgear in bird watching
colours. Outside we pass each other with a polite,
if reserved, "Good morning" but once inside
we become trapped in our reserve status endeavouring
not to intrude on fellow walkers' chatter.
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Quickly
refreshed, I move on: over the bridge, spurred by
the thought that the frost will have disappeared
and I need a frosty scene to justify carrying the
camera. The sun is melting the frost from the branches
but I do catch the last of the icy crystals that
cling to spikes of moss on the ancient wall opposite
the lock at Flatford, unfortunately I focus on the
mill so the frosty spikes become an icy haze, a
lesson well learned.
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Back
to the bridge over the Stour and through a "Mensa"
style gate - careful instructions "move handle
and lift bar" - in order to serve the needs of
those of us who do not specialise in mind games the
bar has now been labelled "bar" for the
uninitiated. Pride forbids me demonstrating my lack
of analytical skills that would help identify which
piece of metal is regarded as the handle - so I resort
to the use of another feminine skill - the ability
to ask someone for help. However, as an Essex woman,
who knows she could make it work if she really tried,
I was delighted when the task could be passed to a
gentleman walker. The cattle-gate gave access to a
frozen water meadow that overflowed into the river,
winding its way back to Dedham.
A
sturdy herd of cattle are walking away to our left,
I am not fearsome of the beasts but treat them with
a certain amount of respect especially if they decide
to congregate around the gates. I am assured that
they are just animals with a sense of curiosity but
sometimes I think they may be disturbed by people
who fail to keep their dogs under control, although
there are notices saying dogs should be on leads,
unfortunately dogs are unable to read and some owners
appear to miss the instructions. (Enough griping) |
I
usually head to the left hand corner of the field,
through the gate, up a narrow path away from the river,
beside a farm yard and out onto the main Dedham High
Street. Today, I am still talking to the "gate
opener" who has a sheaf of maps strung from his
neck as he is checking a route for a group of walkers,
so we take an alternative route. At the far side of
the field we head for the bridge on our right that
takes us across the still moving river. A very narrow
path just above the river between prickly hedge and
wire fence leads to more stiles. Disliking the slippery
uneven surface I suggest heading across the field
but the wisdom of the more experienced walker suggests
the designated path might be a wiser move. True as
my route would have entailed a long detour to overcome
the barbed wire fence preventing our escape into summer
cow-pat land. |
Over
another stile and into the meadow where the children,
young and old, are enjoying sliding along shallow
flood water. Away from the river, on drier land, a
multitude of mole hills indicates a busy underground
network of tunnels for these short sighted creatures.
The Winter sun is loosing its battle with bustling
clouds and the best part of the day is past so the
pace quickens till we reach the car park for a quick
change of boots. I should report that despite walking
through frosty grass and ice covered meadows my feet
are not cold - great. Too soon to go home - even though
it is 2 hours since I started walking (much longer
than on a warm sunny day when you can stride out without
fear of slipping) - so left from the car park and
into the village. |
On
the corner of Mill Lane is The Essex Rose 16th century
Tea House and the thought of a warm welcome for
a lone walker takes me in. Hot chocolate arrives
in a lovely china jug giving me at least two cups
for a Winter treat - I am feeling very righteous,
as I have declined to have cream with the chocolate.
Around me home made soup, jacket potatoes and cream
teas are being devoured so I retreat to the street
before I am tempted. Opposite the Essex Rose is
the timber beamed Marlborough Head and close by
is The Sun public house which offers a spirited
welcome.
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Dedham
is mentioned in the Doomsday Book in 1086 and has
enjoyed a prosperous reputation for over 1,000 years.
When the thriving wool industry declined Dedham became
a centre of academic excellence. The Dedham Grammar
School received the Royal Charter from Elizabeth 1
in 1575 and attracted a number of wealthy merchants
seeking a good education for their sons.
Past
the bustling Co-op, a window full of gifts, and the
local butcher I cross to explore the other side -
a new nail bar has opened and the friendly dress shop
has a sale. Look at how much I could save - trousers
at half price - but the shop is closed. I will have
to make another journey - perhaps not a great saving
in the end but another good excuse to visit Dedham
and absorb the mellow calm of this treasured village.
Sally
Carpenter - ClientAct PR - 2003 |
Note:
The walk is approximately 3 - 3 1/2 miles.
Please be aware of your own safety..
This time I left a note on the car seat - "Walking
to Flatford - 10.30 am" - I am not sure if this
is a good idea. If I fall down a rabbit hole and someone
is worried it would give them an indication of which
track I had taken but in some locations it might encourage
someone to take a less than caring interest in my
car or its contents. Please place valuables out of
site.
Comments
and advice from readers would be appreciated. |
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